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Progressions

 

Juniperus Shinpaku - "Kato"

 

2005 2011

 

 

The history of this small Mame bonsai dates to a travel in Japan June 2005. At a visit at the Mansei-en famous bonsai nursery of late Saburo Kato, I purchased this small tree as prepared (pre-bonsai) material. Because of my meeting with Saburo Kato who made a huge impact on me, I decided to name the tree after Kato-san as my small tribute and remembrance of a great and humble man of the bonsai world.

 

 

 

 

 

2005

The Shinpaku Juniper is very suitable for Shohin bonsai because of its short compact needles, that is slightly stiffer than the softer needles of Juniperus chinensis.

 

Compact growth by nature is a great advantage when dealing with small trees, and in Mame size (Bean size) even more.

 

The tree was very healthy and with clear lush new growth needing attention later on. A tree like this might look too outgrown when found on the sales area, but the bonsai nursery wants it to look healthy and with some mass to their customers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Shinpaku two months later in my garden, taking a first look, making consideration of changes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wanted a very compact tree, and at this stage I was looking for an upright slanting tree, not much different from the tree I saw at first, but later this changed, as I got wiser, more experienced and new ideas arose studying the tree over time .

 

The history here will show all my steps though, hopefully as inspiration showing that trees can change and develop, as we can as humans even in simple scales ;-) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A removed branch with a small piece of the branch left to turn into deadwood (Jin).

Kept short because it would fit better with the overall design in mind at the time. The bark is removed with a jin pliers, simply squeezing and then pulling off the lose bark.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First moves made in June 2005, with the result of the initial styling.

Branches are wired and positioned for the first time in my ownership period.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lush growth then shortened to make a more compact growth.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Same year a month later I decided to repot the tree because of its very hard soil, and because I was in clear doubt if the tree managed to survive with this hard clay (Akadama) soil that it was growing in. In Japan this might be a minor problem because of the heat and high humidity summers, but in my somewhat cooler and dryer summers (at this time in 2005) it might cause health problems (for the tree).

 

Today the climate has changed and our summers in Northern Europe zones like Denmark has changed to wetter and warmer summers in 2010, and either very cold or very warm winters. Quite a challenge I find.

Nevertheless, I would not repot immediately after bringing a tree home today, because the warmer summers today and better protection will make it safe to skip for one season to ensure the health of the tree.

Also wiser today, knowing to make one step at the time, letting the trees recover fully before any work is done. Grow old, get wiser - trees as humans.

 

End of 2005, august, the final image for now. The tree is fully alive and healthy despite some short headed fast actions taken that year.

Actually it has grown extremely well all the time, so my worries may seem a bit exaggerated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2008

Three years after the purchase in Japan, the Shinpaku Juniper now stands 7,5 cm above the beautiful Japanese Bigei pot from the Yokoname area.

At this time the deadwood area of the trunk (Shari) is hidden somewhat, but the movement is enhanced and a good flow is present.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2010

I decided to replace the position of the tree to enhance the view of the trunk deadwood area (Shari). I have worked on the deadwood and changed it from being too smooth, to appearing more rough with deeper fissures and cracks.

 

Next step is to bring out more of the deadwood and repositioning the tree again, in spring 2012. Finally getting the most out of the deadwood and movement of the trunk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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